NEWS: Slot.it McLaren FINA

Slot.it McLaren F1 GTR FINA Review

Be sure to log onto ManicSlots on January 3rd - 12:01am, (Midnight) for the first published review of Slot.it's new FINA liveried McLaren F1 GTR - This ones sure to be a cracker!

Happy New Year all!

REVIEW: Fly BMW M1 Jager

88269 FLY BMW M1 JAGERMEIFTER
Kurt Konig, DRT 1982

Fly worked out early on that certain liveries are very popular and sell very well. Fly loves to release Gulf, Jägermeister, Martini, Rothmans and Sunoco liveried cars whenever they can and my nose would be growing if I claimed I didn't desire them all. They are like rare jewels just waiting to be discovered and plundered. There is something extra special about these liveries that brings a wide smile to my face watching them do battle on the track.

The Jägermeister BMW M1 fits right into the category of slot cars that don't even need to move around the track to make you fall in love with them; this is one stunning slot car!

HISTORY

The number 1 Jägermeister DRT BMW M1 was raced by Kurt Konig in 1982. Yep, that's it! I would have liked to have found out more history about this car but was unable. If any readers have some information about this car please feel free to comment.

PRESENTATION

The Jägermeister BMW M1 comes in Fly's standard crystal presentation box with the usual Fly blue card reminding us that this slot is not suitable for children under 14 years old. Something I have enjoyed showing my wife from time to time. :)

The paint finish of this car is excellent and the orange paint looks deep and glossy. There is no sign of any paint runs and the decals are very crisp and clean. Unfortunately Fly continue to apply decals post their clear coat process, fortunately their decals can take a fair amount of bash and crash. If you look at the 'Jägermeister' lettering it looks more like 'Jägermeifter'. This is because the font type is an old german style where 's' look a little like 'f'. (Thanks to Volker for this info).

QUALITY & DETAIL

Probably the most striking aspect to this release, (except for the Jägermeister livery) would be the gold wheels. The wheels really complement the Jägermeister orange very well. I had trouble validating Fly's wheel choice on this slot as original photos of the car are hard to find. I have several Fly BMW M1s and these wheels are by far the most impressive, particularly the deep silver rimmed rears.

The front of the M1 is pretty basic but accurately reflects the 1:1 race car. There is a black plastic grill, tow hook and clear lights. Side indicators, door handles, locks and bonnet clasps are hand painted which is a nice detail touch. The side rear vision mirrors are made of plastic and although they have a little play look like they would not survive a hard impact.

One thing I did notice with the front of the car is that there is no Jägermeister decal on the passenger side front bumper, (you can see it's clearly missing from the photo 2 up). The 1:1 historic photo in this review shows white text on the bumper in this location so I'd say Fly missed this one.

The rear of the M1 looks great, huge rear wheels, rear window cover and rear wing give the car an aggressive appearance. The rear lights, gear box and exhaust detail complete the scene. The rear tail is glued in place but does have a small degree of movement and looks like it would stand up to countless hard knocks. There is limited under side chassis detail although I'm of the opinion that some detail under the chassis does add to the model even if you can't see it when the slot is running.

As you can see in the above photo, the M1 comes with huge rear rubber that is quite soft and grip well especially by Fly standards. I'm not aware if MJK or any other after market tire manufacture makes rubber for the BMW M1. Even if they do, I don't think this car would greatly benefit as it handles corners very well and little acceleration is lost due to lack of grip.

As you can see from the above and below photos, the M1 chassis is a tried and tested formula; a side-winder motor mount with a large bar magnet. The chassis reminds me of the Scalextric DTM chassis that are so good on plastic track. Similar to Scalextric cars, there is a location for a button magnet towards the front of the chassis. I'm happy to say that this car doesn't need anymore magnetic down-force. If you wanted to, you could add a little weight up front although my car had no deslotting issues during testing. This hole can also be used if wish to convert this car to digital.

The body comes easily away from the chassis via 4 screws, you will need to slip it out forwards due to the exhaust. The front axle is solid metal which is a relief as so many Fly cars come with stub plastic axles. There is however a fair degree of vertical travel in the front wheels and I can see how this may cause rubbing of the front guards. If your front wheels are rubbing on the body work of the car, this can cause a breaking effect that impedes the performance of the slot. My track has a high degree of vertical variation but I didn't experience any issues with the front wheels.

There is a massive amount of lateral movement in the rear axle, probably 2-3mm. This is a very common issue with Fly slot cars and the number one reason for their general 'from-the-box' average performance. Fortunately there is an easy fix and you won't need a doctorate in slot car medicine to administer it. What you need to do is eliminate the lateral movement in the rear axle. By installing a small shim (or washer) on the rear axle you will be able to eliminate this problem and transform your M1 into a beast.

Remove the chassis from the body and then remove one of the rear wheels, (typically the non-gear side wheel is easier) and insert the shim on the axle, then replace the wheel, (make sure the wheel is tight). Reassemble the slot and check the clearance to the rear guards, you don't want wheel rubbing on the body. I used two thin shims as the 'play' in the rear axle was large and I wanted to keep the body offset of each rear wheel the same for appearances. Be careful not to over shim as this can cause the rear wheels to rub on the rear guards.

Interior detail is good with roll cage, separate 5 point driver's harness, dash and steering wheel detail, rear view mirror and driver decals.

PERFORMANCE

As previously discussed, you will need to modify the rear axle a little to get this slot really flying, pun intended. Once the rear end has been shimmed you will need to true the rear rubber. The rear rubber is not badly out of true but one of my rear tires had a mold lip on the outer edge. This would prevent the tire from rolling a little through the corners and also prevent 100 percent contact with the track. Once I had trued my tires the M1 really started to sing.

I previously compared the M1's chassis with that of a Scalextric DTM side-winder chassis. This is in chassis configuration only, the M1 is a very different car to drive than a Scalextric DTM. For one it's not stuck to the road and if pushed will slide coming out of corners. Although the M1 is only powered by an 18K standard Fly motor acceleration and braking is very good. Fly have chosen a 36 tooth spur and 11 tooth pinion gear which is the same configuration for all BMW M1s. It's a good gear ratio and accounts for the crisp acceleration and good breaking.

The M1 shows great potential as a racer, I've spoken to other M1 owners who run their M1s on wooden tracks and they also have good things to say about this great car. You could always upgrade the motor to a 21-25K Slot.it, upgrade the rear tires and glide and add a little weight up the front and I'm thinking the results would be impressive!

Flys release of the BMW M1 was a master stroke as it is a very popular 1:1 race car. Releasing the BMW M1 in the popular Jägermeister livery was a stroke of genius. This car comes with a few small issues which I like to think of as 'Fly character'. Once these small issues are addressed, this car becomes a great looking, driver's slot car and you can't ask for more than that. Whether you race or shelf this car, you won't be disappointed for one second.

The Fly Jägermeister BMW M1 goes straight into 'Manic's collectible slotcars' list.

Manic Score Breakdown

• Sex Appeal: 6th Gear
• Collectibility: 6th Gear
• Build Quality: 5th Gear
• Attention to Detail: 6th Gear
• 'RTR' Performance: 4th Gear

Overall Manic Score: 5.4 Gears

For more information of the BMW M1, head over to the unofficial BMW M1 Website;

http://www.bmwm1.com/

Top Gear review of the BMW M1, (disastrous history)

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=yoZH51eS3YM

BMW M1s in action at the Jim Clark Revival, 2007;

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=TRDA6idrTaE&feature=related

EVENTS: DUPR 2008

DOWN UNDER PROXY RACE 2008

For those of you new to the concept of slot car proxy racing, it's basically entering a car into a series of races on various different tracks typically in different cities and sometimes even in different countries. This means that slot car enthusiasts from all over the world can compete in common events even though they may have never met. If you haven't entered a proxy before, I can honestly tell you it's a lot of fun and a great way to find out more about our hobby and meet like minded people.

Your entry must be built to a specified set of regulations that govern aspects such as type of car, body, chassis and running gear, (motor, gears, tires, wheels, etc). Cars are then raced by round hosts, (typically the track owner and a few friends) and points awarded accordingly to overall round finishing position. Points are carried throughout the entire series, (usually 6-12 rounds) and the final standings determined at the end of the series. Round results and photos are posted on the web after each round so you can follow your entries progress.

The 2008 Down Under Proxy Race, (DUPR) will be organised by members of the Auslot Forums. Last year's DUPR was held over 10 rounds between April and September in Australia. This years proxy will be a similar format but a different category of motor car. The photo below shows last year's impressive line-up of Classic Sports Racing Cars 1960 to 1971. This year the proxy category will be Sports Sedans manufactured prior to 1990. You can find out more about this category of motor car here; http://www.sportssedan.com.au/about.php

There is an entry fee of $AU12.00 for Australian entries and $AU17 for overseas entries, (all fees include the cost of return postage). To find out more, head over to Auslot Forums where you can read about the proxy and become a member if you like. The best thing about Auslot Forums is it's free and run by guys who love slot cars!

Everything you need to know about the DUPR 2008 can be found on the Auslot Forums here;
http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?showforum=53

You can find the Rules and Regulations for the 2008 DUPR here;

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6078

List of 'ready-to-run' slot cars that are eligible for the event can be found here;

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6126

HOW-TO: Slot Car Scenery

HOW-TO: Creating Professional Slot Car Scenery

So you're lucky enough to have the space for a permanent slot car track setup but it's missing something, somehow it doesn't look right. Well that something is most likely realistic looking scenery for your track layout. This 'how-to' is an introduction to the products and techniques you can use to create your own version of Bathurst, Le Mans or Monaco right in your own home.

Firstly a word of warning, this is not a task for the faint hearted and you wont finish in one afternoon. My track is 10 square meters in size and I'm estimating it will take 6 to 9 months and cost $1500 to complete. If that doesn't scare you off, then continue reading and you'll soon be on your way to a professionally landscaped track layout in no time.

There are many elements to the slot car hobby and track scenery is just another one.

If you've ever driven a slot car around a professionally landscaped slot car track you will know how good scenery adds to the enjoyment of our great hobby. One look at the above photo will confirm just how important scenery is. I designed my track layout over several weeks and then played around with the relief of the track for several more. I needed to have a fair understanding of how the topology was going to look by this stage. Once I was happy, I then spent several weeks constructing 'I' sections from wood to adequately support my design. The unfortunate part of this was that while the track was great to drive, (there is nothing like vertical variation in a slot car track) it looked like a super highway minus the grey paint - horrible! What I desperately needed was to construct some good scenery.

STEP 1: TRACK SCENERY THEME

The first thing you need to do can be one of the hardest steps or the easiest - you need to decide on a theme for your track. Summer, autumn, winter, spring, European Black Forest, Sahara arid desert, open-planned F1 style circuit, alpine snow covered or tropical lush green. Maybe you'll be inspired by your favourite real-world track? When it comes to landscape the choices are endless and only limited to your imagination. I always bounce scenery concept of slot buddies, they will quickly tell you if your idea is on the nose!

The next thing you need to decide is what major scenery items will you incorporate into your design. Will you have a bridge, tunnel, grandstand, pedestrian over passes, river, lake, pit lane buildings, helicopter landing pad, race team area, forest, cliffs, hills or mountains. You will also have to incorporate any equipment such as timing bridges, monitors, controllers, etc. It's a good idea to 'live' with your design for a while if you can. For example, I wanted to incorporate the above grandstand into my layout, so I set it where I thought it would look good for height, orientation and location. I then left it in position for a few weeks to see if I liked it or if there was a better position?

It's very important to get things mapped out 95% right during step 1, draw some rough layout plans of your design on paper and make sure it works. Plan, plan and then replan, getting it right at the start can save some major pain and cost down the road!

STEP 2: CREATING THE ELEVATION

This step is what I term 'filling in the gaps'. I wish there was a quick way to do this stage but if your layout is large and track elevated, then its going to take you some significant time. You need to build your scenery up to approximately the height of your track, unless your creating cliffs each side of your track. There are numerous ways to do this and it doesn't really matter which way you do it as long as you have a stable platform for your scenery.

One of the quickest ways can be to use MDF, (or similar material) to build up your track - like creating a false floor. This can be particular useful if you have highly elevated sections and want to be able to store items between the completed scenery level and the top of the track table. I created several storage holes, (right-hand side of the below photo) in my highly elevated areas that are assessable from holes in the sides of my table. I use these areas for storing slot toolboxes, bits and pieces and slots I actually don't own! ;)

Another quick method is use aluminum fly screen. Cut fly screen to the approximately size of the area you need to fill. Then using a staple gun, staple the fly screen to the edges of your track. You can see in the below photo what the fly screen looks like in position. You don't need to cover 100 percent of the area just the majority of it, (note the gaps next to the track in the left of the below photo). Depending on the size of the area you are covering you may need to support it from underneath. My span was too large so I supported the fly screen with some foam blocks which could be removed after plastering.

Next, cover the area using plaster cloth, cut the cloth into small sections no greater that a foot long as it gets hard to manage. Be sure to overlap each piece of cloth as this gives the surface strength. At first I used a plaster cloth product by Woodland Scenics and although this product is excellent it is expensive if you have to cover large areas. As an alternative you can buy plaster of paris in powder form, (Uni-Pro produce it, available in most hardwares) and using chux cloths you can achieve the same outcome. This method is MUCH cheaper although it will be a messier and you will have to work quickly or do small batches of plaster.

The fly screen method is used primarily to create a surface between your various track sections. One problem with the fly screen method is that you won't achieve much detailed shape from your landscape features. To add extra detail, for example small hills, ridges or rocks I use newspaper rolled into small balls and taped into position.

I have shaped polystyrene foam in the past for small projects and had a lot of success with it. However, for a larger job it is too time consuming so I use the newspaper/plaster cloth method. If you do decide to try some polystyrene foam, glue the roughly cut pieces into place using a PVA glue and them use a flame, (BBQ lighter is perfect) to melt the foam creating texture. Please do this in a well ventilated area, preferably outdoors.

In the below photo you can see how I've used newspaper to create small mounds along the side of the track. Once you are happy with your shape you can cover the newspaper with plaster cloth creating instant hills. The cloth dries in around 1 hour but has full strength after 24 hours. If you get any excess plaster on your track just use a damp cloth to wash it off.

In the below photo you can see how I've created a small hill onto of the aluminium fly screen and then finished with plaster cloth. You will also notice in the below photo that there is a darker, (beige colour) large section on the side of the small plaster cloth hill. I decided to make this section of the hill a rock face and have covered it in putty. You could paint the plaster cloth but as the texture is quite smooth the result will not be very realistic. I use a coarse putty, (something for outdoor hardwoods is fine) and apply it roughly, you don't want a smooth surface here. Get a pair of disposable gloves and use a finger to lightly tap the wet putty creating raised featured.

Here is another example of a larger hill mostly covered with putty to add texture. This hill is just mounded newspaper covered in plaster cloth and covered with putty.

STEP 3: PAINTING

Once you have completed a section of your terrain it's time to apply some paint as a base layer. I use water colours which you can buy for a few dollars a tube from any hardware or craft store. You can water them down to make them easier to spread but don't water the colours down too much or you'll have to apply additional coats. As my track theme was ever green, my base coat was a dark green coat. I then followed this with some mid brown and finally some white to add texture and highlight. If you haven't painted before don't worry, this is 1st grade painting so have some fun. Highlight some areas with more brown that would be naturally less grassy, ie step areas, muddy areas or areas you might place some small rocks later.

Areas that you have covered in putty will get a different colour treatment. Decide what colour rock faces you want, (black, dark brown, dark blue) your track to have and start with this colour as your base coat for these areas. These water colours dry very quickly, (around the hour) so you can apply a second base coat if required pretty quickly. Once the rock areas are completely dry it's time to see how good you were at making rocks.

Get a medium sized painters brush and dip it in some white paint. Using newspaper, wipe as much of the white paint off the brush as possible. You should basically have NO paint on your brush and if you were to paint your hand there would be no paint on it. Now take this paint less brush and brush the raised texture of the putty. You'll notice that there is actually some paint on the brush and that white paint is highlighting the putty texture creating the appearance of weathered rocks. This painting technique is termed 'dry brushing'. Have a look at the rock areas in the below photo.

The below photo shows some more areas that have been dry brushed to create a weathered rock appearance. The rock cliff in the bottom left-hand side of the photo was done with polystyrene foam.

STEP 4: ADDING DETAIL

Now that all the painting is finished you can add some detail like small rocks, grass, logs, bushes, rocks, etc. I also use Woodland Scenics products for this stage of the process, I have tried some cheaper products but the results have been less than favorable so I recommend not cutting corners during this final stage. Woodland Scenics produce a huge range of different products so you have numerous texture and colour options here and they are available from most hobby stores. They are specifically designed to be used for model railway scenery but grass is grass. You can get fine turf, coarse turf, blended turf, clump-foliage, foliage clusters, etc., etc. in heaps of different colours.

I like to use at least 2 different colours of grass, (light colour grass on top to highlight) to do my grass areas. You can buy special Woodland Scenic shakers but I just use an old Parmesan cheese shaker. Firstly coat the area you are going to apply the grass to with a light coat of watered down PVA glue. Once again Woodland Scenics make a product, (PVA based) you can spray onto areas instead of painting which is very handy but it's expensive so I paint during this phase. Once your area is adequately painted with PVA glue, sprinkle the grass lightly onto the area, don't use too much till you get the hang of it. If your applying a lighter grass for highlights, apply it once you have finished with you primary darker grass.

You can also get all kinds of sands and gravels so you can apply all of these different finishes at this stage. If you have any little rocks, (fish bowl rocks are good) you can apply them now in areas that you would naturally find rocks. Remember you are trying to create a realistic looking world so don't place rocks in funny places. At this stage I also add some small bushes to add realism. I like to use a darker colour than the colours I have used for my grass so that the bushes stand out. The best thing I have found for bushes is Woodland Scenics clump-foliage, you get quite a large bag for $AU15 and you simply rip it into the size pieces you want.

Once you've placed all your grass, rocks, twigs, bushes, etc. it's time to seal it. Firstly use a clean brush to remove any grass from your putty rock areas and track. Using the spray PVA based adhesive I talked above previously, spray a fine mist of glue over all treated areas. This will act as a sealer and ensure you don't end up with grass all over your track and therefore onto your slot braids. If you get some over spray onto your track remove it straight away, (warm water) particularly on the rails.

STAGE 5: The Goodies

The last step is to add the little details that make all the difference. It's always difficult to source 1/32 scale static scenery items but you will find them in toy stores and hobby shops. Add a few of these items will really get your track looking fantastic. In the above photo I'm going to use the die cast Range Rover as a track official vehicle so it will need some decals applied to the doors, etc.

In the above photo I purchased a 1/32 lifter for $AU9 from a toy farm range and converted it into a track-side crashed car remover. I trashed the remains of an old Fly B98 and bingo, great piece of slot car scenery. Good luck and don't be afraid to experiment as you can always paint or construct something again.

If you have any questions regarding this 'how-to', (or have a better way of doing something) don't hesitate to contact ManicSlots.

I have recently added some more photos of my track layout for additional inspiration and ideas for your own layout, you can find them in the ManicSlot's Gallery Here

For more information on Woodland Scenics products, head over to their website as they have some very useful 'how-to' demos on their products: http://www.woodlandscenics.com/

REVIEW: Slot.it Merc AEG C9

CA06D Slot.it Mercedes Sauber C9

AEG #62 Le Mans 1988

PRESENTATION

The Slot.it AEG Mercedes Sauber is without doubt, one of the most eagerly awaited models for 2007. I'll say straight from the outset that if you have been waiting for this release, you will not be disappointed in anyway. The AEG Sauber was delayed several times due to chassis faults and comes complete with a spare chassis just in case your model has a fault. Ten points to Slot.it for their continued build quality excellence, I guess this is something we have come almost to expect from Slot.it.

The slot is packaged in Slot.its standard packaging of which I'm a big fan. Although the car is firmly secured to the box base, Slot.it ship their cars with a clear plastic spacer which protects the car from damage should it come away from the base. This is such a simple addition to the packaging, (and cheap I would guess) that I don't know why other manufactures, (particularly Ninco, Fly, Spirit, etc.) don't also provide one.

SPECIFICATIONS

• Crown Gear: SIGI27
• Pinion Gear: SIPI09
• Tires: SIPT02 (comes with an additional rear set of S1 rubber)
• Motor: Inline 21500 V12/3
• Magnatraction: Dual position, (magnet supplied in rear position)
• Side-winder motor pod compatible

For additional model detail, head over to Slot.it's website;
http://www.slot.it/index.html

QUALITY & DETAIL

I have very few complaints in this department, Slot.it continue to produce slot cars built to very high quality standards and their attention to detail is perhaps second to only one. The paint finish of this model is up to Slot.its usual standard, which is to say it's damn good. The decals on this model must have been a real challenge to get exactly right but Slot.it have done a fantastic job and I couldn't find any issues with the complicated AEG livery design.

I mentioned earlier that this model is shipped with a spare chassis in case there is a fault with the assembled slot's chassis. This reminds me of when Slot.it shipped a complete spare set of tires with the Newman Porsche 956 due to incorrect tire manufacture decals. From what I've read, one of the potential issues can be that the pick-up won't freely move in the chassis. On inspection my pick-up was very stiff and I had difficulty removing it from the chassis. I fixed this problem easily with a low RPM cordless drill and a 9/64 drill bit. Remove the pick-up and slowly drill the pick-up hole, you won't need to drill very much, just a few seconds at very low RPM to remove a little excess plastic. Reinsert your pick-up and test, you should find that the small problem is fixed and you now have a spare Sauber chassis.

The model comes with rubber aerials which is something I really appreciate. However, Slot.it still produces hard plastic rear-vision mirrors and intake detail. As most Slot.it models see a lot of track time, I looking forward to when Slot.it decides to supply their models with rubber mirrors etc. Scalextric have been experimenting with these for some time and I think they are excellent.

The tail sits out from the body and is glued in place. It has very little flexibility about it and I'm concerned of what might happen during a heavy impact. The original Saubers, (SICA06C) came with a spare tail assembly so Slot.it must feel the tail is vulnerable to damage.

The body is attached to the chassis via 2 screws and like all Slot.it cars is very easy to remove and reassemble. As you can see this chassis is side-winder motor pod compatible and comes with the standard magnet in the rear position. You can also see that this chassis can be upgraded to SSD Sport Digital system.

PERFORMANCE

Magnetic down-force is not too high allowing the slot to slide through corners on my Carrera track. I generally find most Slot.its to have too much down-force making them VERY fast racers, (Porsche 956 & 962, Nissan R390, Audi R8c, McLaren F1 GTR). But the Mercedes Sauber C9 and Jaguar XJR9 (and the Lancia LC2 to a lesser extent) have less magnetic down-force making them more of a driver's slot in my opinion.

Like all Slot.it cars I found the Sauber C9 to be an absolute pleasure to drive. There is something about Slot.its that make them so smooth to drive. If I was blind-folded and asked to drive 5 different manufacture's slot, (one being a Slot.it) I guarantee I could pick the Slot.it every time. Acceleration isn't as crisp as a Porsche 956/962, McLaren F1 GTR or a Nissan R390 but unless you have a huge track, (I have a 5 metre straight) you just can't enjoy too much power. I think the Sauber is geared and powered just perfectly for my track.

One of the first things I do to any Slot.it I drive is to loosen the motor pod screws half to one full turn thus allowing a degree of chassis/body role. You'll find that you can hold more speed through corners if you do this although be careful not to loosen the screws too much, as the rear rubber can rub on body work.

It seems Slot.it have discovered what I term the 'magic slot formula'. They continue to produce slots cars that have a high level of engineering, are as fun to drive as they stunning to look at and are without doubt very collectible.

Overall, the Slot.it AEG Sauber is a fantastic slot car to own, race or collect. The AEG Sauber is a slot car I have been eagerly waiting for and I'm sure I'm not the only one. Previous Saubers have sold out quickly and now fetch substantially more than they originally sold for. If you're into this era of motor sport, (who isn't?) I can't see that there is any debate, you need to purchase this slot!

The AEG Sauber goes straight into 'Manic's collectible slotcars' list.

Manic Score Breakdown

• Sex Appeal: 7th Gear
• Collectibility: 6th Gear
• Build Quality: 6th Gear
• Attention to Detail: 6th Gear
• 'RTR' Performance: 6th Gear

Overall Manic Score: 6.2 Gears

One interesting bit of history on the AEG Sauber is that it never raced at Le Mans in 1988. Both the number 61 and 62 car were withdrawen due to issues with their Michelin tires.

If you're after a bit of history on this model, head over to racingsportscars.com;

http://www.racingsportscars.com/photo/Le_Mans-1988-06-12-photo.html

REVIEW: Scalex McLaren SLR

Mercedes-Benz Mille Miglia
50th Anniversary Twin Set

Scalextric have released a special limited edition box set of the 1955 Mercedes-Benz SLR and the 2005 Mercedes McLaren SLR. The production run is limited to 8,000 units. There are two cars in this set and I have reviewed them separately so I can go into a little more detail. This is the second review on the 2005 Mercedes McLaren SLR. You can find the review on the Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR at the following link;

http://manicslots.blogspot.com/2007/12/review-mercedes-twin-set.html

PART II: 2005 Mercedes SLR McLaren 72250

HISTORY

In 2005 Mercedes teamed up with McLaren to produce a new 722. The carbon fibre grand tourismo body design and the classical styling elements from the legendary SLR racing car of 1955 were blended to bring us the fantastic Mercedes SLR McLaren 722. Its high performance 5.5 litre V8 supercharged engine can accelerate the car to 62 mph in 3.8 seconds, reach 180 mph in just 28.8 seconds and go on to a top speed of 207mph. Taking much of its aerodynamic design and cutting edge technology from Formula One, the SLR is one of the fastest road going sports cars.

SPECIFICATIONS

2005 Mercedes SLR McLaren 72250:

• Motor Mabuchi SP 18k rpm
• Overall length 146 mm
• Car Weight 84 gm
• In-Line Mid Mounted 2 wheel drive
• Wheelbase 83 mm
• Gear ratio 9:27
• Rear Magnet Rectangular stepped 2 mm
• Down-force 161-194 gm

PRESENTATION

The first thing you will notice about this set is how stunning it looks in its silver presentation box. As this set is homage to the legendary Silver Arrows, what other colour could Scalextric use? The Scalextric presentation box is very nice and removing the cars from the box's base is easy. The base section of the box simply lifts up exposing the slots metal screws which are tight and firmly secure the models in place.

The set comes with the usual Scalextric limited edition collector's plastic card. A nice touch is that the cars are printed in colour on the card. There is also a brief history of the cars on the inside of the boxes lid.

QUALITY & DETAIL

Like the 300 SLR, the McLaren SLR has been finished to a high standard. The front of the model is particularly impressive and detailed. The entire front part of the nose is attached to the chassis via 2 internal screws. You can see the body join line either side the Mercedes emblem and down the side of the hear lights, (you can see the disassembled slot in one of the bottom photos). It must have been quite a challenge for the Scalextric modelers to accurately capture the complicated shape McLaren Mercedes designed.

One detail that Scalextric have missed is the colour of the front grill which is bright silver in colour. From the pictures I've researched it's much darker, (almost black) but this is a small thing and could be fixed is so desired.

The rear end looks pretty good although not as impressive as the front, all rear badges are decals. The detail on the rear lights is silver plastic with white decal dots. The slot comes with front, (bright) and rear lights which is something I wish more manufactures would do with their slots.

All bonnet and side vents are completely through the body, the twin side exhausts are attached to the chassis. I particularly like things like the small '722' decal on this model, Scalextric have not cut too many detail corners that I can see. One thing I would have liked to see is rubber rear vision mirrors on this model. For some reason Scalextric put them on some models, (the recent Porsche RS Spyder) but not on others. The models mirrors are exposed and sit out from the body so rubber mirrors would have been the sensible choice.

As you can see, the wheels on the 722 McLaren are a new design from the previous 3 releases. They closely resemble the special wheels McLaren designed for the 722 and I think they look excellent. They give the slot a tougher look in my opinion although I don't own one of the older McLarens. A nice touch is the Mercedes emblem in the centre of the wheel.

The internal dash and driver detail is good. For some reason the driver is driving with one hand, I have no idea what he is doing with the other. The driver would have looked better if he had been changing gears perhaps.

The body comes away from the chassis via 4 screws, (2 front and 2 back). The 2 mid outer screws remove the driver's interior section of the model, similar to Scalextric's GT40s. The motor is an in-line, mid mounted configuration which doesn't seem to affect the model's performance. Putting the model back together is very simple. This car also comes with a small 'limited' edition metal sticker under the chassis, (just in front of the magnet) of the car.

PERFORMANCE

The 722 comes standard with a stepped bar magnet placed forward of the rear axle. There are 2 alternative locations for the magnet if you wish to reduce magnetic down force on the slot's rear. I was very happy with how this slot moved along the track so didn't alter the magnets position. The rear tires are 11mm wide which suits the 722 and don't hurt rear end grip through the corners. I found I had to push the slot quite hard to get it to deslot.

Only a small amount of tire truing was necessary and this car ran straight from the box very well around my track. The 722 comes standard with Scalextrics 18K Mabuchi SP motor so straight line speed isn't as quick as I'd like it to be. Considering the 722s top speed is 344km/h, this slot would look the part going a bit faster. I'll probably be upgrading the 18K Mabuchi to a 22 or 25K in the future. However, this isn't something that should deter you from owning this slot.

The McLaren 722 is a very impressive slot both visually and on the track. Not everyone likes road cars but they can be a lot of fun to drive especially if they are stunning super cars like the 722. Overall, the Mercedes Mille Miglia box set is beautifully presented and a very impressive addition to my collection. Get your hands on one if you can.

Manic Score Breakdown - Mille Miglia Box Set

• Sex Appeal: 6th Gear
• Set Collectibility: 6th Gear
• Build Quality: 6th Gear
• Attention to Detail: 6th Gear
• 'RTR' Performance: 5th Gear

Overall Manic Score: 5.8 Gears

Let's just hope Scalextric decide to release the McLaren 722 GT

REVIEW PART 1: If you want to read the first part of this review which is on the 1955 Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR , you can find it here;

http://manicslots.blogspot.com/2007/12/review-mercedes-twin-set.html

For more details on the Mille Miglia box set, head over to Scalextric: http://www.scalextric.com/cars-3/c2783a-null/product.html

NEWS: Avant LE Lemans 2007

Avant Slot due to release Le Mans 2007 LE Box Set

It seems these days all slot car manufacture are releasing LE box sets. Avant Slot who are a relatively new comers to the slot cars world, have joined the 'Box Brigade'. The box set will feature the top 3 cars to finish the Le Mans 24hr endurance race of 2007. Avant Slot have already released the Audi R10 TDi slot in Australia are set to follow up with the Peugeot 908 HDi and the Pescarolo Sport 07. The 908 HDi and R10 TDi are shaping up to be the most prolific models for 2008 with Carrera, SCX, Scalextric and now Avant due to release them.

The box set is limited to 1000 units and looks set to cost around the $250 mark. The box set will feature the Audi Sport North America winning car, runner up Team Peugeot Total 908 and the 3rd place car, Pescarolo Sport 07. I have always enjoyed watching the Pescarolos at Le Mans, so the release of the Pescarolo 2007 car is something I'm really looking forward too. One can only assume that Avant Slot will be releasing the 908 HDi and the Pescarolo as separate slots to cover model tooling costs.

For more information on the Le Mans 2007 season head over to Racing Sport Cars: http://www.racingsportscars.com/photo/Le_Mans-2007-06-17-photo.html

NEWS: MB Slot Zonda

Art. A0701 MB Slot Pagani Zonda F 2005 White Kit
DECEMBER RELEASE

I received some great photos from MB Slot this morning. No attached information but I think you'll agree, the photos speak for themselves!

A very forward, screwed glide.

Solid, adjustable front axle height.

Front axle height can be adjusted without removing the body.

Spring mounted motor pod, adjustable without removing body. Putting some extra weight up front, (if required) might be a bit tricky.

There are multiple (4) magnet positions, (left and right independent), just forward of the motor. Is this so you can set up for oval tracks? Magnets look quite small although there are 2.

Long cam motor, Slot.it style gearing, rear spring mounted motor pod. There are 3 additional magnet positions at the rear of the chassis, that make 7 in total!

This photo shows the adjustment screws for the floating motor pod, there is a larger than usual gap between the motor pod and the chassis and the gearing is also fully exposed which would allow for very quick adjustment.

Rubber looks good and very well trued on wheel. You have to LOVE those springs on the motor pod!

Motor is held in place at the rear via 2 screws ensuring zero motor movement - there will be no Ninco 'hop' with this chassis.

Can't wait for this baby to be released, I just hope it's not too expensive. Around the NSR price is probably a good guess. One thing is for sure, this is going to be one hell of a slot chassis and with MB Slot picking the Zonda body combination, well it's going to possibly be the release of 2008!

REVIEW: Mercedes Box Set

Mercedes-Benz Mille Miglia
50th Anniversary Twin Set

Scalextric have released a special limited edition box set of the 1955 Mercedes-Benz SLR and the 2005 Mercedes McLaren SLR. The production run is limited to 8,000 units. There are two cars in this set and I have decided to review them both separately so I can go into a little more detail. As the Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR is an all new model, I couldn't resist reviewing it first.

PART 1: 1955 Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR Daimler-Benz

HISTORY

Mercedes-Benz SLR Daimler-Benz signed up Stirling Moss for the 1955 racing season. On May 2, Stirling Moss won the Mille Miglia in the record time of ten hours, seven minutes and 48 seconds at the wheel of the Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR, together with navigator Denis Jenkinson. Similar to his team mates, Moss and his navigator, motor race journalist Denis Jenkinson, ran a total of six reconnaissance laps beforehand, enabling "Jenks" to make course notes on a scroll of paper 15 feet long that he used to give directions to Moss during the race by a coded system of hand signals. Moss and Jenkinson were competing against drivers with a large amount of local knowledge of the route, so the reconnaissance laps were considered an equaliser, rather than an advantage. Moss and Jenkinson arrived in Brescia in their Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR with the now famous No.722 car, setting the race record at an average of 159,65 km/h which was fastest ever on this 1597km variant of the course.

SPECIFICATIONS

1955 Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR:

• Motor Mabuchi SP 18k rpm,
• Overall length 135 mm,
• Car Weight 74 gm,
• In-Line Rear Mounted 2 wheel drive,
• Wheelbase 74 mm,
• Gear ratio 9:27
• Down-force 190 gm

PRESENTATION

The first thing you will notice about this set is how stunning it looks in its silver presentation box. As this set is a homage to the legendary Silver Arrows, what other colour could Scalextric use? The Scalextric presentation box is very nice and removing the cars from the box's base is easy. The base section of the box simply lifts up exposing the slots metal screws which are tight and firmly secure the models in place.

The set comes with the usual Scalextric limited edition collector's plastic card. A nice touch is that the cars are printed in colour on the card. There is also a brief history of the cars on the inside of the boxes lid.

QUALITY & DETAIL

I don't think I'm going too far if I say the 300 SLR is one beautiful looking model. Scalextric have done a very good job capturing the essence of this car. From the photos I have researched of the 300 SLR, Scalextric have also done an accurate job. Scalextric have gone so far as to even accurately capture the appearance of the great man himself, Stirling Moss. Denis Jenkinson looks quite accurately depicted too.

Dash and internal detail is very good, I almost think I can see a tiny Mercedes star on the center of the steering wheel. Exhaust detail is also very well done and makes this model a little unique as its running around the track.

One of the most impressive elements of the model is the spoke wheels with Mercedes emblem in the center. The only improvement I could suggest would have been to use metal mesh for the intake on the bonnet, (similar to Cartrix's model of the Mercedes W196) unfortunately the mesh is a decal. Paint and decal quality is up to typical Scalextric standard - excellent.

The model comes with front and rear lights, you'll be happy to hear that the front lights are not too bright which was a worry I had. The shape of this model is beautiful, (especially from the rear) the curves of this car alone are enough to make you want to own your own little piece of Silver Arrow history.

The body comes away from the chassis via 6 small screws. You will have to remove another 2 screws to separate the driver's cockpit from the chassis. There isn't very much room inside the 300 SLR's body so Scalextric have placed the motor in an offset in-line configuration which is a little unusual. Putting the model back together can be a little tricky as everything must be exactly right, but it's not too hard. Note the small 'limited' edition metal sticker under the chassis, (just in front of the magnet) of the car.

PERFORMANCE

The 300 SLR comes with the standard 18,000rpm motor and 7mm wide classic rear wheels so this car is never going to be a 'Slot.it killer' nor is it intended to be. Considering the offset front-mounted inline motor and the thin rubber, this car does not disgrace itself for one minute.

I would have liked to see this car with Scalextric's stepped magnet or the larger button magnet, (like in the classic F1 cars). The 300 SLR comes with the standard non-stepped magnet and I suspect this is to compensate for the thin rear rubber.

I found no need to true the rear rubber and in fact truing these types of tires can be a trap. As the tires are not very wide they true quickly and you can reduce the wheel diameter quite easily. This means that the bar magnet will be lower to the road, thus increasing the down-force. This might sound like a good thing but it removes the personality of the slot and you end up with a rocket. I made this mistake with the Scalextric Ferrari 156 sharknose, don't do it.

I think the car is a real winner, Scalextric have been highly successful in paying homage to the famous 300 SLR and Mercedes-Benz. The general vibe I'm getting on forums is this type of release is very welcome. The good news is that the Scalextric's 2008 line up will feature the 300 SLR Coupe. Here's hoping Scalextric continue to release more of these classic motorcars. Will I be buying the Coupe? Absolutely!

Manic Score Breakdown - Mille Miglia Box Set

• Sex Appeal: 6th Gear
• Set Collectibility: 6th Gear
• Build Quality: 6th Gear
• Attention to Detail: 6th Gear
• 'RTR' Performance: 5th Gear

Overall Manic Score: 5.8 Gears

REVIEW PART 2: If you want to read the second part of this review which is on the 2005 Mercedes McLaren 722 SLR , you can find it here; http://manicslots.blogspot.com/2007/12/review-scalex-mclaren-slr.html

For more details on the Mille Miglia box set, head over to Scalextric: http://www.scalextric.com/cars-3/c2783a-null/product.html

NEWS: MB Slot Pagani Zonda

Art. A0701 MB Slot Pagani Zonda F 2005 White Kit

DECEMBER RELEASE

MB Slots first release will be a white kit. MB Slot quotes the models release date as the 19th of December but I would think the Oz release date would be some time after. There is currently no MB Slot distributor in Oz that I know but Armchair Racer's website says they will be introducing some new products lines in 2008. We can only hope they will be stocking MB Slot.

Information from MB was pretty basic; "From Wednesday 19 December 2007 is the first code (Art. A0701) PAGANI ZONDA F 2005. Kit white, with small parts of the bodywork mounted and painted bodywork To facilitate customization of the template."

Looks like the slot will be a light weight racer based on the basic pan interior shown above. The recent Sloter LE white release of the FERRARI 312 PB was fitted with MB Slot race components, (motor, gearing and alloy wheels) was very impressive so I have high expectations for the Zonda.

For some more information on MB Slot head over to their website: http://www.mbslot.com/

NEWS: Slot.it McLaren FINA

SICA10B Slot.it McLaren F1 GTR FINA

RELEASE DATE ANNOUNCED!

I have some really good news for Slot.it fans in Oz. Our good friends over at Armchair Racer have just informed me that the long awaited FINA McLaren F1 GTR is expected to be released on the 3rd of January 2008.

The FINA McLaren goes straight into my 'Collectors' line-up as a must have collectible slot. I've been awaiting this livery for the best part of 2007 and the McLaren really is a 'must-have' in my opinion.

---------------------

On another little bit of interesting Slot.it news, during 2008 Slot.it will be re-producing the SICA03C Porsche Italiya n.9 3rd LeMans 1989. So for all of you that missed getting one for your wifes or girlfriend's birthday, (I know I did) here's your chance! ;)

http://www.armchairracer.com.au/SlotitCars/Slotitcars.htm

REVIEW: Porsche RS Spyder

C2812 SCALEXTRIC

PORSCHE RS SPYDER #6

PRESENTATION

The first thing I noticed about this model was its size. I was expecting a slot around the same size as the Scalextric Lola but this car is much larger. One of the largest slots Scalextric make, (apart from the MC12) is the Lister Storm LMP900, the RS Spyder is a wider and slightly longer than the Lister which will give you an idea of how big this slot is on the track.

The model is presented in Scalextrics new crystal box which is very similar to the crystal boxes Scalextric produced slots in during the 70s. I personally like the new packaging as the car is on a 10-15% slope improving model visibility for those of you that store your slots in their boxes when not in use. The boxes stack together well and the model is well secured while being easy to remove.

SPECIFICATIONS

• Easyfit Digital Plug system.
• Quick change guide braid plate.
• Motor Mabuchi FF 18k rpm In-Line Rear Mounted
• Overall length 147 mm
• Car Weight 82 gm
• Wheelbase 91 mm
• Gear ratio 9:27
• RearMagnet Rectangular 2.5 mm, Down-force 278 gm
• Front and rear lights

For additional model detail, head over to Scalectric; http://www.scalextric.com/cars-3/c2812-null/product.html

QUALITY AND DETAIL

The paint finish on the Spyder is up to Scalextrics usual high standard. On my model there were very few paint runs, (few small ones on the tail) but I really had to look for them. The overal paint scheme is visually eye catching for sure, I think Scalextric choose a impressive livery to launch this new model. Decal detail is very good and even the smallest text is highly ledgeable. The decals have a clear coat for protection which also gives the entire paint scheme a lovely shine.

One thing I would have liked to have seen with this model is more driver detail. For some reason Scalextric still produces some of its models without driver helmet decals. I've noticed the F1 releases now all seem to have coresponding driver helmet decals which is something Fly have been doing for a long time. I know it's a small item, but a plain silver helmet really detracts from the models overall excellent presentation.

One thing I'm not too keen on visually is the excessive gap between the wheels and the body wheel arches, (especially with the rear wheels). The true to life car does have some corresponding wheel clearance but Scalextric seem to have extenuated it a little too much and it doesn't look right.

Scalextric have added rubber rear-view mirrors and aerial to this model which is something I really appreciate as this model will see a lot of track time. The tail sits quite high from the body and is glued in place. It has quite a high degree of movement and only time will tell if it's strong enough to stand a heavy impact.

The body is attached to the chassis via 6 screws which is not surprising considering the size of this model. You can see the 'Digital Plug Ready' flap in the above image which allows you to convert this model to fully digital by removing one screw and simply plugging in the digital plug piece.

You can also see the standard, (not stepped) Scalextric bar magnet position which is just forward of the rear axel. Unlike most Scalextric models, there are no alternative magnet positions in the chassis. This model also comes with Scalextric's quick change guide braid plate.

PERFORMANCE

One thing common to all Scalextric cars is a fair degree of magnetic down-force. The RS Spyder isn't immune from this but as the magnet is forward of the rear axel, magnetic down-force isn't too much and the car can be made to slide a little through corners on my Carrera track.

The Spyder is a perfect match for my Lister Storm and Lola LMP2 slots. I haven't done any timing comparisons but the Spyder drives very well around my track. Like with most ready to run slots, I had to true the rear tires a little, (no sign of excess plastic flashing on the rear wheels). The Scalextric rubber compound is very easy to true and once trued, the performance of the car increased markedly.

Overall, the Spyder is a nice slot to drive and easy on the eye but doesn't really stand out from the crowd. If like me you already have several LMP class cars, then you will want to add this one to your collection. However, if you only purchase 1 car a month then put your hard earned dollars towards something else.

Manic Score Breakdown

• Sex Appeal: 4th Gear
• Collectibility: 3rd Gear
• Build Quality: 5th Gear
• Attention to Detail: 5th Gear
• 'RTR' Performance: 5th Gear

Overall Manic Score: 4.4 Gears

NEWS: Sloter white Zytek

SLOTER TO RELEASE WHITE ZYTEK

It looks like Sloter are expanding their plain white slot car line-up with the addition of the Zytek. I really enjoy this type of release as it lets you create your own 'fantasy' livery or research the real world model and source some corresponding decals.

One of the reason I have not purchased one of Sloter's Zytek releases to date, is the incredibly ugly black tri-spoke wheel inserts. The plain aluminium wheels are a huge improvement from an appearance and I'm betting from a performance perspective too.

It will be interesting to see if the white Zytek will be powered by a MB Slot motor as the 312 and T280 are. Odds are it will be which will also add to the model.

NEWS: Scalex Porsche RS

SCALEXTRIC PORSCHE RS SPYDER

RELEASED IN OZ TODAY!

Little Background to this model: The RS Spyder was developed by Porsche to win the prototype class title in the American Le Mans series. The RS is built to Le Mans LMP2 regulations and signals Porsches return to serious motorsport, this is the first purpose built platform since the 911 GT1 of the late 90's.

It wouldn't come as a surprise that Porsche's main rival for this series is Audi in the form of the Audi TDI R10 although the Audis compete in the LMP1 class. 2007 was only the 9th running of the American Le Mans series and saw the RS Spyder totally dominate the leader board finishing 1st and 2nd comprehensively.

For more information on the American Le Mans 2007 season, head over to Wikipedia;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2007_American_Le_Mans_Series_season

As you can see from the real picture, (top) of the RS, Scalextric have done a fair job at reproducing the RS but there are some obvious differences especially in the nose area. Most obvious are the head lights and front grill.

This car will be fitted with what Scalextric is calling it's 'Easyfit Digital Plug' system for those of you running Scalextric digital. Rear mounted, in-line 18K Mabuchi FF motor, front and rear lights with non-graduated magnet in the rear.

The Scalextric Porsche RS Spyder

The Carrera Porsche RS Spyder

The chassis setup for this car looks amazingly like Scalextric's Lola which wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing as the Lola is a fine car to drive. Looking at the Carrera RS one can't help but think the Carrera RS looks better. For a start, the is the Carrera RS's wheels look far more true-to-life and so too does the model detail, things like the driver's helmet and refueling detail. I'm also not that keen on the huge space between the body and the tops of the wheels on the Scalextric model.

What's very exciting about this model is the massive ammount of potential liveries for such a young platform. As a massive LMP car fan, the RS is one slot I'm sure to add to my collection, but will it be Carrera or Scalextric?

Review to follow.

REVIEW: Fly March 761

Ref 88279 FLY MARCH 761
GP USA WEST 1976, ARTURO MERZARIO

The USA West 1976 March 761 is the forth March livery release by Fly in the last 6 months. As with most new Fly model releases, Fly has release successive liveries very quickly and I believe the livery count as of December is up to five, two of which are LE box cars.

The first thing you'll notice about any of the new March models is the different colour of the standard Fly box base. There is also the addition of start grid line work at the front of the model. These are only small things, but it's the small detail that has always set Fly apart from other slot manufactures.

Being a huge F1 and Fly fan, I have acquired the first 4 of the March releases. What made the March extra special for me was that this was the first time Fly had ventured into open-wheel slots. I particularly like this USA GP version due to the huge air intake mounted behind the driver and the striking livery.

QUALITY & DETAIL

Fly have really come out swinging with this release, the attention to detail on this model even surpasses Fly own benchmark standards. What makes for a pleasant change is that some of the detail on this model is functional. I have always like the way SCX F1 cars have had steering and Fly have incorporated the steering feature in the March. Not only have Fly incorporate steering in the front end but they have also added suspension, real suspension, (you can see the small spring in the below image). As you might expect, the spring is very light allowing quite a high degree of travel in the front wheels.

This might alarm some you with respect to home much damage could this model sustain before the front wheels fell off. Well I've been running several of these cars for several months now and have had several serious offs. To date, none of my Marches have sustained any real damage - touch wood. I think the March has two things going for it in the damage stakes. Firstly, the front wing is huge and protects the front end quite a bit. Secondly, because the car has steering there is a degree of movement in the front wheels if they are to hit something.

One element you will want to fix straight away is the front brake air cooling vents. For some reason Fly have attached these quite lightly and they will even rattle off after a dozen laps without an off. I simply put a few small dabs of super glue on them and the potential problem is fixed.

Let's have a quick look at the rear end. No surprise that the level of detail here is consistent with the front end. Details such as the extractors, exhausts, radiators, tow hook, diff and piston covers are all done so well. This slot really looks like it belongs on your desk as a static model not flying around your track! Other details such as front brake air vents, drive harness, (separate to figure) and fuel caps really finish this slot off extremely well. Wheel detail is also excellent and the decals are very nicely done, especially the extra detail on the driver's helmet.

The body comes away quite easily from the chassis via four screws. Detail is pretty basic under the chassis. Although it doesn't do the model justice, you can see the fantastic exhaust detail in the above image.

PERFORMANCE

Being a visually impressive slot you could be forgiven for thinking Fly might have note spent enough time in the performance department. Well I'm very happy to tell you that the March goes as well on the track as it looks off the track. That big fat rear rubber really helps this model while not making it a boring 'fire and forget' rocket! You will have to drive this slot to get the best from it, the chassis/body is obviously very well weighted. I typically add a small amount up front in most of my Fly slots but not this time.

One small issue I did have with the March was the rear rubber. The rubber is FAR from true and as a result I'd estimate there is approx 50% of the rear tires contacting the track. I inspected the plastic rimes and found very little excess mold flashing. Fly tires can be difficult to true but the March's rubber compound is pretty easy to true with a little sand paper. You can get a 80% truing result in about 5 minutes. Because this car is so much fun to drive, I doubt I'll be looking for after-market rubber to correct the problem.

Overall, the March is absolutely excellent and in my opinion Flys best new model for 2007. I strongly recommend you get at least one if your a fan of the era.

Manic Score Breakdown

• Sex Appeal: 7th Gear
• Collectibility: 6th Gear
• Build Quality: 6th Gear
• Attention to Detail: 7th Gear
• 'RTR' Performance: 6th Gear

Overall Manic Score: 6.4 Gears

NEWS: Carrera LMP lineup

Carrera has become serious about LMP Prototype class slots in 2007. The first releases where the Audi R10 TDI and Porsche RS Spyder. The Peugeot 908 HDI is the 3rd LMP release from Carrera in the last 3 months.

Carrera are not alone in releasing the Peugeot 908 HDI, both SCX and Avant Slot are also releasing the model. With such competition for fans of the 908 hard earned dollars, it will be interesting to see how Carrera fare. Carrera will find themselves mid way between the SCX 908 and the Avant offering as far as cost goes. Interestingly enough, of all these releases the Carrera car looks the most impressive and the Carrera wheel detail if far superior.

The Peugeot 908 HDI comes with front light (Xenon) and rear light function. I'm assuming there will be no chassis change from the recent Carrera releases so we see 2 adjustable magnet positions along with the unique Carrera direction change switch.

The Carrera 908 will be released in 2 liveries, the striking straight black FAP test version and the FAP race version. The xenon lights and the striking black release might just be enough to give Carrera the sales advantage. Either way, the manufacture that can get the 908 out first stands to do well.

NEWS: Ninco TV3 LE Mosler

On the 10th of December, Ninco will release a special liveried Mosler for the TV3 Network in Catalonia, Spain.

The limited edition Mosler is available to Ninco members only and the asking price, (inclusive of postage) is 55 euros, (which works out at around $AU93!). The car is offered by Ninco on a first come, first served basis so if you want one, you may need to be quick.

Although this Mosler is a ProRace edition, I can't help but think that if you're after a new Mosler your money might be better spent on the new MOSLER MT900 R #7 PRORACE' 'Vortrom'. Still, the release does have a limited collectibility about it which the Vortrom doesn't.

I was also unable to determine just how 'limited' the release actually is. If you want to become a Ninco Club member you can sign up at the Ninco homepage, last time I checked it was still free.

http://www.ninco.com/

EVENTS: Dakar 2008

The Lisboa to Dakar 2008 countdown has begun!

On the 5th of January 2008, 205 cars, 245 motorbikes, 20 quads and 100 trucks will start their engines and head off on the last true motorsport adventure known as the Dakar Rally. To save you doing the math, that's 510 vehicles entering in the 30th annual running of the Dakar.

This year 40 percent of the bike riders and 18% of the car entrants are first timers. They will be traveling across more than 9,000 kilometres of some of the most inhospitable and remote terrain in the world!

In Oz we get 30 minutes of coverage from SBS daily on free-to-air. Last year, Fox Sports covered the event a little better but nothing that paid the event justice! Subscribe to your favorite teams website where you will be able to download daily content. Will this year be the year for VOLKSWAGEN or will MITSUBISHI continue its unmatched domination of the Dakar? For me it has to be Das Auto, Volkswagen!

With the soon to be released Ninco Schlesser 'Fox', what better way to get into the spirit of the Dakar. This Ninco release has all the potential to be an absolute winner.

For more details on the Dakar, head over to the official site;

http://www.dakar.com/indexus.html

NEWS: Slot.it Merc AEG C9

SLOT.IT AEG SAUBER DELAYED!

Perhaps the most anticipated livery release for 2007 is due for release in Oz on Wednesday the 5th, (RELEASE DELAYED). Like many Slot.it fans I have been greatly anticipating this livery release, it seems to have been on the cards for all of 2007. Probably also like many, I have pre ordered the C9 and I'm hopeful that it will turn up for this weekend.

If the AEG C9 is anywhere near as popular as the previous livery releases of the Slot.it C9, it will sell out pretty quickly, (especially considering this time of the year). But if you won't be able to get this one don't worry too much about it, something tells me there will be at least one more AEG release in the future.

While no one would ever argue about Slot.it's engineering, build and finish quality or attractive model choices, slotters must be starting to get a little annoyed at the never-ending delays when it comes to Slot.it releases!!!!!!

The revised release date is; 'unknown'.

Full review and heaps more photos to follow...I hope!

HOW-TO: 917K Respray

So you've recently purchased one of the new Fly 'fast kits' and you're not that happy with the livery? Well for around $AU20 you can change it to something that floats your boat!

The first thing to do is to remove ALL detail from the body, lights, refueling caps, wipper, grills, etc. If you're starting with a fast kit then you will have an easier job.

Once you have stripped all detail and you have a plastic body, give the existing decals a light rub with some dry/wet 1000 grit sandpaper, (you can actually wet this sandpaper which reduced friction). Don't get violent here, you just need to give them a light sand. Onve you have finished sanding be sure to clean ALL sanding dust from the model before painting.

Using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, (light grey or white - I prefer white as grey can alter your final top coat colour choice) give your model 2-3 LIGHT coats. I use a half inch diameter stick, (approx. foot long) with a glob of blue tack to secure the body on the stick for painting. Be sure to get 100% cover with your primer, you will only need to wait 30-60 minutes between coats.

Pick your final livery colour, (in this case I used orange Tamita TS-12) and give your body 3 light coats. What you're aiming for here is to gradually build your bodies final colour, to achieve it in the first spray coat. Once again, you will only need to wait 30-60 minutes between coats. I use a fine brush, (as fine as you can get) to add some fine paint detail to the body. Paint things like bolts, dash detail, drivers helmet and gloves, (in this case I painted my drivers helmet and gloves orange - see the top respray photo).

Leave the body for 24 hours, you really want the body to dry well prior to appling the decals. You can source your decals from numerous places but I used DMC 1/32 decals from Pendle Slot Racing, (Patto's Place also provides a good OZ decal service). The decals I used are designed for a Porsche 962 but decided to go with a 'fantasy' livery for my respray. http://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/

Take your time with the application of the decals, apply one at a time and lightly sponge dry. Be sure to achieve symmetry with duplicated decals on each side of the body. Allow the decals to set for 24 hours and then apply 2-3 clear coats to seal them. I use a product called Topcoat made by Mr Hobby but the Tamiya clear coat is also suitable. Topcoat comes in a few different finishes, I prefer the gloss finish as it gives an impressive deep paint finish.

The final stage is to add all body detail and put your new slot together. Sounds like a bit of work but I can guarentee you will be grinning from ear-to-ear when you race your personal liveried slot.